Buttermilk Fried Chicken

This one was the first recipe Aaron saw in Ad Hoc at Home that he really, really wanted to try. There are a lot of steps, so make sure you get yourself organized well ahead of time before digging into this one. It is very, very delicious though and Aaron and I were very impressed with the results as were Corey and Brian.  Best part of this? Corey is not much of a fried chicken fan, but enjoyed this meal. If you’ve been disillusioned by fast food fried chicken, I think this will change your mind. I’m listing a quarter recipe of Thomas Keller’s brine below, but because Aaron wasn’t a big fan of it, you can use any brine you normally use with poultry. Do stuff to your taste. I’m also doing a half recipe as that is what we did. I normally list a full one, but I think you all can figure this out. This makes more than enough chicken by itself.

Buttermilk Fried Chicken from Ad Hoc at Home:

Serve 4 to 6

4 lb. chicken

For the brine-

1 lemon, halved

6 bay leaves

¼ bunch flat leaf parsley

¼ bunch thyme

2 Tb. honey

¼ head of garlic

Handful peppercorns

½ c. kosher salt

½ gallon water

For dredging and frying-

Peanut or canola oil

½ qt. buttermilk

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the coating-

3 c. flour

2 Tb. garlic powder

2 Tb. onion powder

2 tsp. paprika

2 tsp. cayenne

2 tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Sea salt or kosher salt for garnish

To make the brine, combine all of the ingredients in a large pot, cover, and bring to a boil. Boil for 1 minute, stirring to dissolve the salt. Remove from heat and cool completely, then chill before using. The brine can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

Cut the chicken into 10 pieces: 2 legs, 2 thighs, 4 breast quarters, and 2 wings. Pour brine into a container large enough to hold the chicken piece, add in the chicken, and refrigerate for 12 hours only.

Remove the chicken from the brine and discard the brine. Rinse the chicken under cold water, removing any herbs or spices sticking to the skin. Pat or let air dry. Let rest at room temperature for 1½ hours, or until it comes to room temperature.

If you have 2 large pots, about 6” deep, and a lot of oil, you can cook the dark meat and the white meat at the same time; if not, cook the dark meat first, then turn up the heat and cook the white meat. Aaron did the latter method. No matter what size pot you have, the oil should not come more than 1/3 the way up the sides of the pot. Fill the pot with at least 2” of oil and heat to 320 degrees. Set a cooling rack over a baking sheet. Have a second baking sheet ready.

Meanwhile, combine all of the coating ingredients in a large bowl. Transfer half the coating to a second large bowl. Pour the buttermilk into a third bowl and season with salt and pepper. Set up a dipping station: the chicken pieces, one bowl coating, the bowl of buttermilk, the second bowl of coating, and the second baking sheet.

Just before frying, dip the chicken thighs into the first bowl of coating, turning to coat and patting off the excess; dip them into the buttermilk, allowing the excess to run back into the bowl; then dip them into the second bowl of coating. Transfer to the baking sheet. Your hands will get messy, but it’s worth it.

Carefully lower thighs into the hot oil. Adjust the heat as necessary to return the oil to the proper temperature. Fry for 2 minutes, then carefully move the chicken pieces around in the oil and continue to fry, monitoring the oil temperature and turning the pieces as necessary for even cooking, 11 to 12 minutes, until the chicken is a deep golden brown, cooked through, and very crisp. Meanwhile, coat the drumsticks, and place on the baking sheet.

Transfer the cooked thighs to the cooking rack skin side up and let rest while you fry the remaining chicken. Putting the pieces skin side up will allow excess fat to drain. Make sure that the oil is at the correct temperature and cook the chicken drumsticks. When the drumsticks are done, lean them meat side up against the thighs to drain, then sprinkle the chicken with sea salt.

Turn up the heat and heat the oil to 340 degrees. Meanwhile, coat the chicken breasts and wings. Carefully lower the chicken breasts into the hot oil and fry for 7 minutes, or until golden brown, cooked through, and crisp (as you will with all the pieces). Transfer to the rack, sprinkle with salt, and turn skin side up. Cook the wings for 6 minutes or until done as before. Transfer the wings to the rack and turn off the heat.

Rest the chicken for 7 to 10 minutes before serving to allow it to all cool down. If it is too cool because of the timing of cooking everything, place in a 400 degree oven for a minute or two so the crust is crispy and the chicken hot.

We served these with biscuits, mashed potatoes, and green beans. If you plan it out, this makes for a great weekend meal. At the very least, it’s worth trying once. 

Roasted Chicken with Root Vegetables

Not too long ago I managed to get a copy of Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc at Home for super cheap at Title Wave. Even though the weather has been warm (and then cold and then warm), chicken recipes, especially Thomas Keller’s chicken recipes, make for great weekend dinners. That’s why this Saturday and next Saturday I will be posting two recipes Aaron and I have made recently from Ad Hoc. They are good meals to share with family and friends and I’m excited to master them in the future.

Today is all about roasted chicken. Try to get one as close to the size listed below to match the roasting time. And nothing is better than a good meat thermometer. We like to get many of our meats from New Seasons because they specialize in ethically and locally raised animals. If it is available and affordable to you, why spend the time making a wonderful family meal based around sad, hormone laden chicken?

The root veggie part is great because you can use whatever it is you have available to you. I’m listing below what is in the recipe itself, but I’ll mention here that we used sweet potatoes, Yukon gold potatoes, leeks, an onion, and carrots. Use what you like because it’s your dinner. This is a long process, so make sure you give yourself plenty of time for prep and cooking.

Roasted Chicken with Root Vegetables from Ad Hoc at Home:

One 4-4½ lb. chicken

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

6 thyme sprigs

2 large leeks

2 tennis ball sized rutabagas

2 tennis ball sized turnips

4 medium carrots, peeled, trimmed, and cut in half

1 small yellow onion, trimmed, leaving root end intact, and cut into quarters

8 small red-skinned potatoes

1/3 c. canola oil

4 Tb. unsalted butter, room temperature

Remove the chicken from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature for 1½-2 hours, or until it comes to room temperature.

Preheat oven to 475 degrees.

Remove the neck and innards if they are still in the cavity of the chicken. Using a paring knife, cut out the wishbone from the chicken for easier carving later. Generously season the cavity of the chicken with salt and pepper, add 3 of the garlic cloves and 5 sprigs of thyme, and massage (yeah, I know) the inside of the bird to infuse it with the flavors. Truss the chicken.

Cut off the dark green leaves from the top of the leeks. Trim off and discard any darkened outer layers. Trim the root ends, cutting around them on a 45-degree angle. Slit the leeks lengthwise almost in half, starting ½” above the root ends. Rinse the leeks well under warm water.

Cut off both ends of the rutabagas. Stand them on end and cut away the skin, working from the top to the bottom and removing any tough outer layers. Cut into ¾” wedges. Repeat with the turnips, cutting into wedges to match the size of the rutabagas.

Combine all of the vegetables and the remaining garlic cloves and thyme sprig in a large bowl. Toss with ¼ cup of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Spread the vegetables in a large cast iron skillet or a roasting pan.

Rub the remaining oil all over the chicken. Season generously with salt and pepper. Make a nest in the center of the vegetables and nestle the chicken in it. Cut the butter into 4 or 5 pieces and place over the chicken breast. Put the chicken in the oven and roast for 25 minutes. Reduce the heat to 400 and roast for an additional 45 minutes, or until the temperature registers 160 in the meatiest portions of the bird (the thigh and under the breast where the thigh meets the breast) and the juices run clear. If necessary, return the bird to the move for more roasting and check every 5 minutes.

Transfer the chicken to a carving board and let rest for 20 minutes. Just before serving, set the pan of vegetables over medium heat and reheat the vegetables, turning them and glazing them with the pan juice. Cut the chicken into serving pieces, arrange over vegetables and serve.

Obviously not a warm weather dish, but it is perfect when the temperature dips. The taste is incredible and it just feels so homey and warm. Give it a shot when putting your oven on doesn’t sound like the worst idea ever.

Pear Apple Crisp

Do you want to do a quick dessert with whatever fruit you have in the house? I recommend a crisp. This one is more of a fall to early spring version, but you can make it spring to summer with strawberries and rhubarb or peaches and cherries. Or really anything that you like and looks amazing. This really is the best way to make a seasonal dessert. Adjust the spices and sugar to your liking.

Pear Apple Crisp modified from The New Moosewood Cookbook:

About 6 servings

4 peeled and sliced tart apples

2 peeled and sliced pears

2-3 Tb. lemon juice

¼ c. sugar

1¼ c. rolled oats

1 c. flour

¼ c. brown sugar

1 tsp. cinnamon

A dash each of allspice and nutmeg

½ tsp. salt

½ c. melted butter

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Combine the apples and pears in a 9” square pan. Sprinkle with sugar.

Mix together the remaining ingredients (from rolled oats down) in a medium sized bowl. Distribute over the top of the fruit and pat firmly into place. Bake uncovered for 35 to 40 minutes or until the top is crisp and lightly browned and the fruit is bubbling around the edges. Serve at any temperature from hot to room. Best with ice cream.

 Super easy and you probably have a lot of this stuff already, especially if you like to bake. It packs up nicely for picnics and would be a welcome addition to any potluck. I love crisps and now I’m thinking of doing another one. I do love summer peaches!

Sweet Potato and Black Bean Quesadilla with Swiss Chard Pesto

It’s been hot here lately folks. And that’s a mostly nice thing. What it means is that cooking usually doesn’t take long in the kitchen because no one wants to be in there. I love this recipe from Closet Cooking because it used a bunch of my CSA, packs a ton of protein, is mostly good for you, and is ridiculously delicious. The quesadilla recipe itself is for one, but with the amount of everything else you’re making, you can easily double or triple the quesadillas you make. Have some friends over or something. All the modifications were based on what I had available at home/could find at the store.

Sweet Potato and Black Bean Quesadillas with Swiss Chard Pesto slightly modified from Closet Cooking:

Serves 1

Quesadilla-

1 tortilla

½ c. (or less) shredded cheddar cheese

¼ c. chipotle roasted sweet potatoes and chipotle black beans

1 Tb. swiss chard pesto

Chipotle Roasted Sweet Potatoes and Black Beans-

2 large sweet potatoes, scrubbed, dried and cut into ½” cubes

2 Tb. oil, separated

2 Tb. chipotle in adobo sauce, minced and separated

2 tsp. ground cumin, separated

1 small onion, diced

2 clove garlic, chopped

1 (19 ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed

Swiss Chard Pesto-

1 bunch swiss chard, coarsely chopped

1 handful cilantro, coarsely chopped

1 jalapeño, coarsely chopped

2 cloves garlic

¼ c. pine nuts, toasted

½ c. olive oil

½ lime, juiced

Salt and freshly pepper to taste

To make the sweet potatoes and black beans, toss the sweet potato in 1 tablespoon each of oil and chipotle and 1 teaspoon of cumin, place on a baking sheet in a single layer and roast in a preheated 400F oven until tender, about 30-40 minutes. Do this early in the day if it’s going to be a hot one.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a small sauce pan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until tender, about 3-5 minutes. Add the garlic, remaining chipotle and cumin and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the beans and cook until warm, a few minutes. Mix with the sweet potatoes.

To make the pesto, puree all of the ingredients together in a food processor. You can do this a day or two ahead of time. There will be a lot, so try it out on a bunch of stuff.

To assemble the quesadilla, place the tortilla in the pan, sprinkle half of the cheese over half of the tortilla, then top with the chipotle roasted sweet potatoes and chipotle black beans, swiss chard pesto and the remaining cheese. Fold the tortilla in half coving the filling and cook until the quesadilla is golden brown on both sides and the cheese is melted, about 2-4 minutes per side. Serve garnished with more salsa, some sour cream or yogurt and whatever other toppings you like.

Ravioli

Ravioli is super easy to make, especially once you’ve already got the hang of making pasta. You can fill it with anything you like, easily changing a meat based recipe like this one to a vegetarian one. The best part is that this doesn’t take long at all.

Ravioli:

Serves 2 with leftovers

1 recipe egg pasta

½ lb. ground meat (turkey, beef, or some combination of what you like)

¼ c. ricotta

4 garlic cloves, minced

Salt & pepper

Basil

Oregano

1 egg, beaten

Sauce of your choice

Prepare the pasta. Roll it out as you would for long noodles, but leave in sheets. Set aside to dry.

Mix together all other ingredients except egg. Roll into balls and evenly space them across the dried pasta sheets, leaving another sheet to place on top of this one. When all of the meat (or pasta) is used up, brush the beaten egg in the spaces between the filling balls. This acts as a binder for the top sheet. Take the other sheets and press them down on top of the meat filled side. Create pockets for the filling, pressing down firmly to remove as much air as possible from each pocket.

Using a knife or a pastry cutter, cut the pockets into squares. Place the ravioli into a pot of boiling salted water. Like all fresh pasta, these do not take long to cook, 3-4 minutes at the most. Serve warm with any sauce (marinara is always good).

A fast and very tasty way to do a weekday meal. I like that the basic idea lends itself to many different types of ravioli, depending on what you like to use to fill it. 

Homemade Pasta with Smoked Salmon and Dill Cream Sauce

What do you do when you are gifted some of the best smoked salmon in the world? You put it on everything you can find. And then you take the rest of the filet and you make delicious, delicious pasta with it.

This past holiday season Aaron gave me something I have always wanted: a pasta maker. Not just any pasta maker either – an Atlas, the same kind my parents have had for years. It is wonderful and easy to use. The recipe I used for this batch was done by hand, but can also be done in the food processor (and it's easier too). It says pasta for 2-3 and I think it can be more 3-4 depending on what you put in it. If you have super amazing smoked salmon, I recommend this. Even if I never seem to measure anything. You can make a roux, right?

Homemade Pasta with Smoked Salmon and Dill Cream Sauce:

Serves 3-4

Pasta-

1 1/4 c. Flour

2 eggs, room temperature

Pinch of salt

Sauce-

At least 1/2 filet smoked salmon, flaked and bones removed

Roux

Half-and-half or heavy cream

Dill

Salt

Pepper

To make the pasta, either buzz the flour and the salt together in a food processor and then add the eggs one at a time or put the flour on a cutting board or clean counter and make a concave space in the center. Using a fork, mix in the eggs and slowly drag in more flour until you make a dough. In both cases, knead out the dough for a few minutes and set aside to dry.

Using your pasta maker, roll the dough through the widest setting. Fold in half and do this again 8 more times. Then roll the dough through each setting progressively until you reach the thickness you want. Mine is at setting 8. You may need to cut the dough in half as you roll it through as it becomes quite long. Set aside and allow it to try for about 15-20 minutes before rolling it through the cutters.

Once you roll the pasta through the cutters and you have gorgeous noodles, everything else comes together really quickly. You'll want to have your sauce ready to go before you get the noodles boiling as it takes no time at all to cook fresh egg pasta.

To make the sauce, prepare a roux. I like to brown the butter a bit for that slightly nutty flavor. Add in enough half-and-half or cream to make a nice, thick sauce. Add in a good handful of fresh dill or a decent amount of dried. Add in salt and pepper to taste. Add in smoked salmon. Set aside and keep warm.

Get the water boiling and get those noodles in there. They'll be done really, really fast. Add them to the sauce and serve immediately.

This is a dynamite dish and it sounds much more complicated than it actually is. Plus it tastes really, really good.

Things I Love Thursday: Mar. 29, 2012

Not So Smarties by Alan Sailer via Flavorwire

(see the rest of the exploding food here)

Has it really been this long since I've done one of these? Man, all of my links are probably old news by now, but maybe I've got some gems. And maybe I'll get back into the habit of doing these because they are fun. Maybe. Enjoy the show!

Social Media + Customers Hate You = Bad Idea: Old news, but hilarious. When I actually ate there, my good times were not so much about the food, but more about the kind of hidden upstairs area my friends and I would hang out in at the downtown location in Juneau. It involved a lot of squirting ketchup packets at each other and random teenage nonsense.

John Gorham Lands Cookbook Deal With McSweeney's: If you don't live in Portland, this is what you need to know - everything Gorham touches turns to restaurant gold. Toro Bravo? Down the street from my place and amazing. Tasty 'N Sons? Brunch from heaven (and also close by). Interurban? I've heard nothing but good things. So yeah, his cookbook sounds pretty darn exciting to me.

(Brad Pitt apparently eats in almost all of his movies. I think that's the premise behind the Ocean's movies...get money so Rusty (Brad) can eat more stuff.)

Wahlburgers - A Review: So Brad Pitt likes to eat food in film. Mark Wahlberg helps make food happen. I found out about his family's restaurant in December and recently Serious Eats went out to review it. And it turns out the burgers are pretty good. I don't know if they are drop your pants good, but it's nice to hear nonetheless. 

Mini Taco Bowls: You make them by flipping over a muffin tin and forming a bowl out of tortillas on the other side. How cool is that?

Mallory Motor Hotel 1965: Awesome shots of an old hotel menu here in Portland. Why yes I would like a $1.50 fruit plate. There were $.85 daiquiris. Yeah. The drink list itself is priceless.

Wing Personality via Huffington Post

(wings aren't just for the Super Bowl. Ask Aaron.)

How To Eat Food: The candy corn one is my favorite. I do that every year. Lewis Black has a great bit about candy corn, but I can't find the video. The point is that candy corn is something you forget you don't like and then you eat it. And then remember. I think maybe hypnotism is involved.

Sprinkles Cupcake ATM: A real thing. And now I have to go to Beverly Hills just to check this out.

Why British Food Was Bad For So Long: I'll admit it: when in England, I mostly ate grocery store sandwiches. In my defense, they were really, really good sandwiches. The ploughman? Awesome. And Aaron wasn't eating Indian food yet, which is supposed to be a highlight of London. Despite my culinary non-adventures, this article is really interesting and shows a lot about how war and economics can have an effect on culture.

The Very Worst of British Cuisine via Gemma Correll

(perfect accompaniment to the above article)

I'm also loving: candied ginger chews; pickled jalapeños (actually, pickled anything); making soup up as I go along; bananas foster french toast from Screen Door; bao; perfect bagels; pizza dates; tacos all the time; surprise cupcakes from Cupcake Jones; free cookies; lunch on a patio for the .2 seconds it's actually nice here; Podnah's Pit twice in one week; happy hour always and forever; citrus! all of the citrus! tangelos & ruby red grapefruits & navels & everything; Hawaiian plate lunch; tea any time of day; adventures in Thomas Keller's cookbook; the surprises in my CSA; seriously - citrus.

What are you loving this week? Or in any of the weeks I didn't post?